Beers on the Blue Coast 2024

Recently I spent part of the winter in or near the Côte d’Azur in France, a custom for some years now. This gave the chance to acquaint anew with the French beer scene. The lines that follow are meant as impressionistic, not a formal survey.

For the most part I had good experiences. Inevitably some beers disappointed, but that happens at home too.

The French mass market – so beers of the typical, non-specialist cafe or bar – is omnipresent. Meaning down the street one will find a Heineken, or Carlsberg, or Kronenbourg 1664. Sometimes a Pelforth Blonde, French-made by Heineken, or occasionally Belgian Jupiler. More rarely Paulaner from Munich. A variant of Kronenbourg, its “1947”, seemed more present than on past trips.

Many such bars also offer a stronger option, typically a Belgian such as Leffe, Affligem or Grimbergen, sometimes a bottled Trappist or other beer. Belgian beers in general retain great presence in France, an early export market that continues in importance for Belgian brewing.

The big international groups dominate the everyday bar trade, a pattern no different in most parts of the world. “Bud” has much more presence than a few years ago, similarly in retail outlets as for all the big-name beers.

The French still like to flavour the staple draught, a “Monaco” is popular, beer, lemonade and grenadine. Or a panaché, beer and lemonade.

Most towns and cities will have a beer specialty pub, sometimes the tap of a local brewery. These vary with predelictions of the owner. Some deepen their Belgian selection, many now offer draught Guinness stout without claiming as such an English or Irish character.

Some beer-aware bars make a conscious effort to offer a selection from the region’s, or other French, craft brewers. The Alpes-Maritimes region comprises now about 20 crafts. You see the names in the retail stores again, and on some taps.

Overall quality is excellent, as all over France and anywhere the beer culture has sunk deep roots. Of course local factors can make a difference. Climate in the far south dictates quenching, medium-gravity beers. Many of the brown and amber beers I found had a character not so different from their blond stablemate, an attempt I think not to offer anything too “heavy”.

The “bière blonde” of the crafts often had good flavour, but some were on the light side, stressing more image and labelling. As the British say, “horses for courses”.

Standard offerings for a craft: blond, brune, amber, IPA, and often triple beers. Rarely a stout, not in general a French preference, perhaps since Guinness Draught is so available. Often too a winter spiced ale is brewed, it lingers in the stores until March or April.

Much depends on the inclination of the brewer and their interests. A brewery in Menton makes good use of the local lemon variety, and other citrus fruits, in its beers.

 

 

A clutch of Irish and English pubs can usually be found, depending again on size of town and the visitor pattern. The name and decor identify them as in this class, but most seemed French-owned. Often a sprinkling of English-speakers features, visitors or expats wanting a flavour of home.

Guinness is usually a staple there, but often Belgian and other beers too. There might be an English ale or two, or a craft like grapefruity Punk IPA, from Brewdog based in Scotland.

The Bouc Ness (Toulon Irish Pub) particularly impressed with its warm decor in dark wood and red brick, equally warm welcome, and eclectic beer choice. The day we visited Pilsner Urquell was on draft, among items from nearer and afar. The Guinness was in faultless condition.

In the food stores and of course wine and spirits shops a larger international selection can often be found with Irish, British, German, Belgian, Scandinavian and some American beers, among others. Brooklyn Lager and Defender IPA are widely seen, on draft too. But in general few American and British brands are seen.

I tend to look for the special versions of Guinness such as West Indies Porter, Foreign Extra Stout, and Special Export, each with pronounced flavour and classic Guinness character. The “East European” shops that dot the towns offer an assortment of well-priced Czech, Polish, Lithuanian and other beers of the East. The Polish Zywiec shown, an old-school strong porter, was especially good.

 

 

 

Somme toute, day in, day out the scene is ubiquitous national brands, Belgian ales (big group-owned and other), local/regional brewers, and a sprinkling of imports. More than enough to satisfy any beer visitor, by my lights.

For what stood out, first, the Marseilles-based La Cagole, a blonde lager with a decided Czech leaning. Its body is fluffy with a confectionary character, counterpointed by spicy-herbal noble hops (probably Czech Saaz, with some kind of late addition as brewers say). I speak here of the draught, the bottled is good but the draught ultra-good, put it that way.

For local craft ales La Rade brewery in Toulon has an excellent range with a focus on IPAs, three on offer when I visited: New England-style, West Coast, and IPA writ plain. The last was my favourite, with a good dash of English character.

 

 

 

For other French, I focus always on the beers of the French north country especially the bières de garde. These are sold all over France, from old-established and newer brewers, and often are top choices. I lean to Jenlain (Duyck), La Choulette, Les Trois Monts and Ch’ti (Castelain), the amber iterations where I can find them.