Dutch Lunch. Part II.

Part I includes numerous additional references. Although one can multiply these almost indefinitely, I consider that, with the text, the arc of the Dutch lunch has been explained.

Here, by way of postscript or summary, I focus on two images, one from John Goins’ book, the other from the magazine Table Talk, both from the additional references. The second shows a table service for Dutch lunch. The centrepiece is striking, a large stein filled with green hops from the vine.

One wonders where the average homemaker or even restaurateur was expected to fetch such a thing.  Presumably it was thought anyone thinking of hosting a Dutch lunch would find a way.

A restaurateur likely had access via brewery representatives constantly importuning for business.  A homemaker would have to inquire further, but there were a lot of breweries in America before World War I, at least in larger centres.

As noted in Part I, with the approach of the war, and increasing influence of temperance, traditional German accoutrements were adapted to coffee service. The result seems rather awkward – even a small stein was ill-suited to ferry coffee – but “awkward” describes well how the suit of temperance fit the frame of the American body politic and social.

When commenting on the table service image, Table Talk states that either coffee or beer is served, so its caption was more decorous. Note that caption explains the meal is gathered from “the side”, in keeping with the informal nature of a Dutch lunch.

John Goins, as seen below, was not quite enthused for the use of doilies in this context, seeming to prefer, well, a bare boards approach. He deferred finally to the wishes of “the American hostess”.

I have had countless meals in brewpubs. Never can I recall a stein or vase filled with hops on the table. True, the effect would be dampened with hop pellets (a processed form commonly used), but brewpubs often use the full flower form, or know how to get it certainly.

Even that would make a display if artfully arranged, where hops on the vine can’t be procured, that is. There is always a new angle, which sometimes proves to be rather old.

Brewpubs reading, hark. But let’s leave the doilies in the past.*




Postscript to the postcript, but for what it is worth, Wikipedia details the (truly) Dutch koffietafel, spelled in some accounts kaffietafel.

concludes this look.

Note re images: source of images above is identified and linked in the text. All intellectual property in source belongs solely to the lawful owner, as applicable. Images used for educational and research purposes. All feedback welcomed.

*I claim no expertise but think the doily idea may also fetch from Germany, or perhaps Holland in this case.


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