Michael Jackson-style Advice in Queen Victoria’s Era
An obscure brewery publication from 1850, The Proprietors of the Swan Brewery, etc., offers some real insight on contemporary English beer styles, this is in point of flavour (viewed as body or richness), aging, and strength.
The pamphlet, from Swan Brewery in Walham Green, Fulham has been examined (to our knowledge) on a couple of occasions. Once by Alfred Barnard who printed the front page in his Noted Breweries of Great Britain and Ireland (1891) and referred to it as a price list.
Another notice was by Rob Woolley who authored an article some years ago in issue 126 of Brewery History, available here.
Barnard does not address Swan Brewery’s trade designations. Woolley recounts some of the styles and prices but does not go further: his focus is elsewhere and includes brewing procedures and the impact of contemporary science (which may be summed up as, almost nil).
The pamphlet’s descriptions for its range of beers are compelling as nothing similar exists in brewery history we are aware of. Countless Victorian advertisements contain recitations of terms such as X, XX, Pale Ale, and their prices. Brewing texts and journal articles contained similar information in more summary or fragmented form.
Swan Brewery’s promotional literature reveals early marketing skill, Crawford agency-style before its time, especially in the bucolic artwork and lyrical-poetic content. But the document was still a sales pitch and includes a serial description of the beers, like a modern pocket handbook.
It was designed for wholesalers, public houses and hotels, probably too favoured home purchasers, with something extra to entertain or instruct.
The key part is the statement that each class of beers, mild, pale, black, is distinguished by a gradation of strength, body and (especially) age, also in some cases quality, meaning the materials used.
While AK, which I discussed recently, is not mentioned, XK is. Its place in the schema is a mid-point between IPA and pale ale, not just for price and strength but especially again for aging, which gives a clue to the respective character. For example, quite possibly the oldest, IPA, had the brett tang while pale ale and XK did not, or more oxidative notes.
Perhaps Swan XK was simply a blend of the pale ale and IPA, or, all three were the result of three successive mashes later blended to a set gravity for fermentation. It could have been either but clearly XK received a mid-point of aging. Perhaps the range was something like two months for pale ale – four months for XK – 12 months plus for IPA.
The pamphlet supports the meaning of the “K” in XK and AK as keeping as it states all the pale beer range was aged, however short that was for some (in other words), or later became. Brewing history writers have suggested various alternate explanations, for example that K denotes the pale ale style, but in my view this is not consistent with the statement in the pamphlet that pale ale, XK and IPA “differ only in the degree of strength and age”. (My emphasis).
I should add, there was no need to refer to keeping in the designations for pale ale and India Pale Ale. By definition these were stored beers for much of their history and universally understood as such. But to describe the intermediate(s), what do you say?
Therefore it’s the same thing inferentially for AK, a light bitter. Had Swan produced a AK it would have come first in the schema.
Of course, terminology was never statutory or otherwise precise. Hence some breweries termed their range AK – pale ale – IPA, or AK – AKK – Pale Ale – IPA, etc. The variations are on record but the important thing, as the pamphlet states, is that an aging progression was in place.
There are other points of interest in the piece including its speculation that hop use in England is German in origin and goes well back in English history, before Henry VIII’s time.
Its lyrical evocation of the Kentish commons and hop fields should form part of the English pastoral and is a pleasure to read. What better term than “practical poetry” to describe an immersion in the vales at harvest time?
Woolley’s useful article contains an oddity to my mind in that part of the discussion revolves around pinning down the date of the publication. He concludes it was about 1850.
However, the pamphlet appears to state clearly the date of publication as you see above – 1850 in fact.
I think the answer is, Woolley states the pamphlet was “tiny”, only 3 1/2″ x 6 1/2″. The 1850 date at the bottom of the page was probably unreadable to the human eye or rubbed out in the copy he used. The volume on Google Books would have been magnified for uploading and looks in that form as normal folio more or less.
What happened to Swan Brewery? To make a long story short the brewery had a succession of owners in the 1800s. It was rebuilt in the 1880s near the original location by the Stansfeld investment firm which owned the share capital then. That firm later leased the brewery to the City Brewery, an old concern in the City, which needed more space.
In 1934, Ind Coope of Burton merged with Allsopp Brewery, and in ’36 the merged group bought Swan Brewery and closed it.
Note re source of images: the four images above were sourced from the 1850 publication linked from Google Books in the text. All property in the source belongs to solely to the lawful owner or authorized user, as applicable. Images are used for educational and historical purposes. All feedback welcomed.